Easy Fitting
with Basic Patterns Guide 400 C-201
You like to sew. but you have fitting problems.
Why not make a basic pattern to help solve your
difficulties?
Choosing Basic Patterns
Each pattern company has its version of a basic
pattern to help you with your fitting problems.
These can be made up in firmly woven cotton
which can be ripped apart after fitting and used as a
guide for fitting other patterns.
Basic patterns are available in several styles- sheath
with gored, flared , or straight skirt or A-line. Sele ct a
simple dress pattern , preferably one with five pattern
pieces (front blouse, back blouse, sleeve, skirt front ,
skirt back) and vertical waistline darts in bodice.
Each piece should have at least one basic dart. Take
advantage of new types of patterns that may simplify
your alteration problems, such as proportioned patterns
, patterns that feature two size lines (for women
who need different sizes for bust and hips) , and
special size types such as Half-Size and Miss Petite.
Choosing Fabric
If you decide to make your own basic pattern ,
choose a pre-shrunk cloth if possible. If you use
muslin , do not preshrink it. Be careful to press it
so grain lines run perfectly true. Discarded sheets or
other materials should not be used since they are
usually so soft that they are difficult to work with
accurately. Gingham is a good selection; using the
fabric design as the "grainl ine" makes it easy to see
where the garment does not fit.
Steps in Making Your Own Basic Pattern
I . Copy your basic pattern on plain paper. Using your
body measurements plus ease as a guide , alter this
pattern to fit. If you do an accurate job of pattern
Guide 400 C-201
alteratio n. you will save considerable time and
difficulty in fitting later. A basic pattern will be of
little value to you unless you make even minor
alterations and mark them carefully on the completed
pattern.
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2. After you make the major alterations on your pattern,
place the paper pattern on the fabric and cut
the garment. Be sure to mark the pattern to allow
a I-inch seamline at center front of the bodice and
skirt for a front opening. Also allow I inch for all
seams except the neckline and annscye. After
cutting, mark all the seamlines, darts, notches,
grainlines and other pattern markings, using
dressmaker carbon. Remove the pattern and staystitch
any seams which are not straight. Clip the
neckline to within 1/8 inch of staystitching. No
hem is needed at bottom of skirt.
3. Machine baste the garment together on seamlines,
leaving center front open. The I-inch seam allowed
at center front of both bodice and skirt will make
the dress easier to fit.
4. Fitting- Try the gannent on over correct foundation
garments. If additional changes need to be
made, alter the fabric model until it feels and
looks just right on you. It is best to work with
another person when fitting. Fit by changing the
size of darts and seam allowances. Using a soft
lead pencil , carefully mark all changes in darts,
notches, seamlines, etc. Although it may be easier
to fit with the wrong side of the garment out,
this technique should not be used as it will result
in poor fitting if one side of the body varies in
shape from the other. Continue fitting until neckline,
waistline, hipline, and wristline are comfortably
snug and curved to fit.
5. Correct paper pattern on basis of changes. Correct
fabric model so that it is the same as the corrected
pattern.
6. After making fitting notations, the gannent may be
pressed carefully, ripped apart, and saved to use
later in checking pattern size or as a cover for your
dress form. Or, press the gannent carefully and put
away to be tried on occasionally to determine if
changes need to be made in the basic paper pattern.
7. Check the paper pattern for accuracy. Use a ruler
to measure all darts, shoulder, waistline, and under-ann
seams and skirt seams below hipline. Use the
original pattern as a guide to true curves. Correct
all adjoining seams and dart lines so that they are
equal in length.
8. You may wish to cut the pattern out of lightweight
cardboard. This can be placed over other patterns
for quick checking or it can be used to design your
own garments. To make the cardboard, trace
pattern onto heavy paper or cardboard on corrected
seam line etc., omitting seam allowances
and hems. Retain notches only in sleeve and armholes
and cut darts out.
How to Use a Basic Pattern
Your fitted basic pattern will now be your guide
to check the lines and proportions of other patterns
as you use them. By having seams cut off and darts
cut out, pattern sizing and dart placement can be
quickly checked . This cardboard basic pattern can be
quickly traced around to make your own patterns.
The basic pattern cannot be used indefinitely, for
your figure does change, but once you have fitted a
basic pattern , you should have little difficulty fitting
another when you need it.
Revised by-Susan Wright
Extension Clothing Specialist
Published and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the Cooperative Extension ~rvice of New Me.xieo
State University, Robert l. Gilliland, associate dean and director, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooperating, New MeXICO State U~lVer8ity I.
an equal opportunity employer. All programs are available to everyone regardless of race, color, religion, sex, age, handIcap or national ong'".
Reprinted July 1990 Las Cruces, NM
5C
NMSU Cooperative Extension Service and Agricultural Experiment Station Publications
